tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-67239752502718360912024-03-19T21:27:17.554+01:00Using the Canon HF100 PAL HD CamcorderUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger55125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-49163158938570665352011-02-16T19:18:00.003+01:002011-02-16T19:23:37.179+01:00Three years later ...<p>... and I still have my HF100. Actually I have two because I bought a second one shortly before they disappeared from the market.</p>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAQmMnxDuj1SHWxkPZmtptVecGqLpdY9vho9WPxpFIAz1dhyKYbZzcPhaIyAw4pW5CdS9LnxVwnrC8XmVFLlQ7puEt8KJ_wC8IWKC0YDZ-ClF86m7yDU8r9HXCVOt4TVuFc1gipyofk9g/s1600/2xHF100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="376" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAQmMnxDuj1SHWxkPZmtptVecGqLpdY9vho9WPxpFIAz1dhyKYbZzcPhaIyAw4pW5CdS9LnxVwnrC8XmVFLlQ7puEt8KJ_wC8IWKC0YDZ-ClF86m7yDU8r9HXCVOt4TVuFc1gipyofk9g/s400/2xHF100.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>I don't have the impression that the new models offer any significant improvements in image quality. The only thing I miss is full manual control but if I have the urge to upgrade one day I will rather buy a real pro camera with built in ND filter, professional audio, waveform monitor and dedicated controls. And should this camera shoot great stills and video and have a larger sensor I'd be more than glad.</p>
<p>But until then I enjoy the compactness and ease of use of the HF100. Forgive it it's quirks and try to make the best of it.</p>
<p>I learned a lot about video in this three years and I'm glad some posts where also useful for you.</p>
<p>I close this blog now and move on. Be well.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-24293838841994009612010-10-29T14:22:00.008+02:002010-10-29T14:45:49.686+02:00Simple but effective camera movement<p>After all these "high tech" camera slider solutions it's time to point to some simple and zero cost (if you already have a video tripod) camera movement tricks. Enjoy these two well presented clips by YouTube user <i>brusspup</i>:</p>
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<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/LqPX0gH2id0?fs=1&hl=en_US&rel=0&hd=1&color1=0x3a3a3a&color2=0x999999" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object><br />
<i><br /></i><br />
<br />
<p>The next one is an old trick that allows smooth pans with amateur video tripods:</p>
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<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Fj6fMcJ18aA?fs=1&hl=en_US&rel=0&hd=1&color1=0x3a3a3a&color2=0x999999" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object><br />
<i><br /></i>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-30104673874766910612010-05-02T20:53:00.003+02:002010-05-02T21:01:27.147+02:00Movist plays .mts files on Mac OS X<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHX1_sqABJErdLccTvEcNFgPBgLmAcOQ0LHPfVVDwSkB4hO0AGuegelpCAqxgaV_9esuaLlDK4kCQeIBgTKxDpEDXM1HKyO_xrD45YfTW6olVZ-_QvHMB8x-2O22MC0UHFFUmE0vpUQRQ/s1600/Picture+2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHX1_sqABJErdLccTvEcNFgPBgLmAcOQ0LHPfVVDwSkB4hO0AGuegelpCAqxgaV_9esuaLlDK4kCQeIBgTKxDpEDXM1HKyO_xrD45YfTW6olVZ-_QvHMB8x-2O22MC0UHFFUmE0vpUQRQ/s320/Picture+2.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The free Mac OS X movie player Movist can play native AVCHD (.mts) files.<br />
You can download the latest version from <a href="http://code.google.com/p/movist/downloads/list">this Google Project hosting page</a>.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-60221166141283987502009-12-31T09:04:00.035+01:002010-01-08T10:29:57.630+01:00Short manual slider<object width="400" height="225"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=8582233&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=8582233&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="225"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/8582233">Winter Solitude</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user401504">Martin Koch</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
<p>How long should your slider be? I bet in 99% of all cases you'll just need a short one. Consider this. A rather common 10 mm/s move uses up 100 mm rail per film second. You'll be able to show a pretty long 40 seconds move with a 500 mm rail and 100 mm carriage. In practise the majority of your dolly moves will be under 10 seconds long so a 500 mm rail will be more than sufficient.</p>
<span style="font-weight:bold;"><p>The following is a version of the "ZaZa" Slider described in this great <a href="http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=145701">dvxuser thread</a>. </p></span>
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGri4tDF1xXpJ4lITCyH5oXKRQLZLPMh9zcxysn_N-um3JNq5j4zdDq5NwRyPvMa6DQGs5qgYDmZmskwE6LDRK6k8oa5BvJ6lHruBMUHNB0S0cUs5dPxhH-U6Wr7oe2DMy4DDGNsU_QmI/s1600-h/shortslider1.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGri4tDF1xXpJ4lITCyH5oXKRQLZLPMh9zcxysn_N-um3JNq5j4zdDq5NwRyPvMa6DQGs5qgYDmZmskwE6LDRK6k8oa5BvJ6lHruBMUHNB0S0cUs5dPxhH-U6Wr7oe2DMy4DDGNsU_QmI/s320/shortslider1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422156373393635650"></a>
<p>My new short manual slider consists of:
<ul>
<li>One 500 mm long <a href="http://www.drylin-w.de/wpck/default.aspx?pagename=drylin_w&C=de&L=en">Igus DryLin W</a> WS-16-60 rail.</li>
<li>One 150 mm long WW-16-60-15 HKA carriage with manual clamp.</li>
<li>One cheap <a href="http://www.velbon.co.uk/newvelbon/pages/DV7000.html">Velbon PH-368 fluid head</a>.</li>
<li>One <a href="http://www.manfrotto.com/Jahia/site/manfrotto/cache/off/pid/3269?livid=107&idx=115">Manfrotto 357 universal sliding plate</a> for quickly mounting the slider to a tripod.</li>
<li>Two blocks of wood for low slider moves.</li>
<li>Four M10 or 3/8" bolts with washers for the end stops.</li>
<li>One 3/8" or 1/4" bolt for mounting the fluid head.</li></p>
</ul>
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6fg3EoiOYpjTFivPvAfqdT-wizHh18yN5N8frLtk0ytAiR66BL2RbxsW4-gqLadypRQ4iXDM4e_XkiJ9JUPelm2ZTvWfCgE0Q95ERoJWDphGFPgsxVY8cmUQlfDfY8Ry55kle8PMkmaQ/s1600-h/shortslider2.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 148px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6fg3EoiOYpjTFivPvAfqdT-wizHh18yN5N8frLtk0ytAiR66BL2RbxsW4-gqLadypRQ4iXDM4e_XkiJ9JUPelm2ZTvWfCgE0Q95ERoJWDphGFPgsxVY8cmUQlfDfY8Ry55kle8PMkmaQ/s320/shortslider2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422156505608425298"></a>
<p>A 100 mm long carriage would be more than enough but I had to choose the 150 mm long carriage because the manual clamp doesn't fit on the short carriage. Nevertheless I still can do more than 30 seconds of slow 10 mm/s moves. Plenty enough for me.</p>
<p>The total cost for the complete manual slider is 220 EUR incl. VAT (120 EUR for the Igus parts + 40 EUR for the fluid head + 50 EUR for the universal sliding plate + 10 EUR for small parts). Please note that Igus seems to have different prices for different countries so your total costs can vary from mine. The whole assembly is heavy, rock solid and will work with much larger camcorders than the HF100.</p>
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ6rgatofEBPOhV5FW2fINT2o2MnM-_Vu1h5C0qgWL4CwbMmLiS8ZfeCEmS5TO7FaelWFlpwCbPuwpXuPbfSIwwzfXw-nnsLG_OXmeI6lpthJyfpUOrBj2RuCO_s5q5QTN9-PGIsvKOqA/s1600-h/MakeSlider.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 166px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ6rgatofEBPOhV5FW2fINT2o2MnM-_Vu1h5C0qgWL4CwbMmLiS8ZfeCEmS5TO7FaelWFlpwCbPuwpXuPbfSIwwzfXw-nnsLG_OXmeI6lpthJyfpUOrBj2RuCO_s5q5QTN9-PGIsvKOqA/s200/MakeSlider.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422189104468891362" /></a>
<p>The 8 mm diameter holes in the 16 mm diameter rails are perfect for a 3/8" thread and nearly perfect for a 10 mm thread. I bought the <a href="<a href=" http:="" at.rs-online.com="" web="" search="" searchbrowseaction.html?method="getProduct&R=6681103"">3/8" UNC tap</a> and <a href="http://at.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0292209">3/8" UNC bolts</a> from RS-Components. Single 3/8" UNC bolts are available from <a href="http://www.rosentaler-schrauben.at/Zoll-Schrauben-UNC/UNF---850.html">Rosentaler-Schrauben.at</a>.</p>
<p>Smooth manual slider moves are not hard to do after some practise. Nevertheless I couldn't help to try an enviroment friendly, absolutely silent, gravity driven automatic slider version. I bought the rope roll with ball bearings (pulley) some time ago from eBay. I suggest you do a <a href="http://www.google.de/products?rls=en&q=kugelgelagerte%20Seilrolle&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&hl=de&tab=wf">Google product search</a> for possible suppliers.</p>
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxJ1aTR0E5jZdWEWYmBzu7goUGiAAECeBZDtz3Ljz3-nUX9hIFuEm4ilShCIceF11tx8rbPPv2F_WOuJZ7E2VQt2V6dngQJFcQ5uIBBDToHabjf94AjsrgC-CHzwaT04lcbqeUeyyHwUs/s1600-h/shortslider3.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 185px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxJ1aTR0E5jZdWEWYmBzu7goUGiAAECeBZDtz3Ljz3-nUX9hIFuEm4ilShCIceF11tx8rbPPv2F_WOuJZ7E2VQt2V6dngQJFcQ5uIBBDToHabjf94AjsrgC-CHzwaT04lcbqeUeyyHwUs/s320/shortslider3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422156512663730498"></a>
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzp9a4xjRtg3ema4YLq8l8ft-edIwnYsRuE-D2-rjlPJsYwIYYvbMxJC-M2eMnoNqEeU8mgU8iZaLf6lefvlg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>
<p>As it turns out this is also useable to add movement to shorter timelapse shoots. 0.3 mm/s are no problem.</p>
<p>Optional with larger equipment a <a href="http://www.howstuffworks.com/pulley.htm">block and tackle</a> system could save weight.</p>
<p>Without deflection of the rope you can go as low as table height with this system</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-42003329636879104402009-12-21T17:48:00.007+01:002009-12-21T19:18:37.993+01:00Canon BP-827 Fully Decoded Compatible Battery<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitk5_rjXd4BppCkkTEtnlDmgsHSRxiktGMC3QMEmQs3MyuwNnZhEx8B1jkedDhABDq3C6QskgWIPBCascRDdcsSvXFNRO6CrzIRnuNt9K2DeDQYzD6oCYLNbm2eNHQNCGe53FeaMQ85W4/s1600-h/bp827n.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 206px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitk5_rjXd4BppCkkTEtnlDmgsHSRxiktGMC3QMEmQs3MyuwNnZhEx8B1jkedDhABDq3C6QskgWIPBCascRDdcsSvXFNRO6CrzIRnuNt9K2DeDQYzD6oCYLNbm2eNHQNCGe53FeaMQ85W4/s400/bp827n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5417733077092283362" /></a>
<p><a href="http://lacolorshop.com/products/item.asp?id=bp827n">This 2900 mAh third party battery</a> is fully compatible with the HF100 and other Canon cameras i.e. It can be charged in the camera or with the original Canon charger and it shows the battery level on the camcorder display. This battery will power the HF100 three times longer than the battery that came with it.</p>
<p>The original Canon BP-827 battery currently has a street price of $125 / 120 EUR.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-41969285673955061712009-07-09T09:50:00.056+02:002011-06-19T14:25:43.861+02:00DIY camera motion controlHows about moving your HF100 like a pro?<br />
<object height="230" width="400"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" />
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<param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=5537337&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1" />
<embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=5537337&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="230"></embed></object><br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/5537337">DIY camera motion control</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user401504">Martin Koch</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
The system consists of a ready-made IGUS DryLin W rail system and a small stepping motor which is controlled by an Arduino interface board. Once the controller program is loaded the system works stand alone. It can be powered by a battery and can be controlled by a simple power switch because the programmed task starts automatically each time the Arduino board is powered on. It's possible to <i>horizontally</i> move loads (camera + mounting head) of up to 6 kg (13 lbs) with the system described below. <br />
Here's what you need:<br />
<h2>
Slider</h2>
1000 mm long <em>Igus DryLin WS 10-80</em> rail.<br />
Costs: about 50 EUR / m<br />
Ready-mounted <em>Igus DryLin WW 10-80-15</em> sledge.<br />
Costs: about 30 EUR
<br />
The maximal possible length of movement equals rail length minus slider length (the WW 10-80-15 sledge is 150 mm long) so the usable length will be 850 mm ( 1000 mm - 150 mm).<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4usTwfxoEnYJAk7bWCrVR-YjkCirM6z8fiy6VeMwy9ebsfc0onC0wbfdE7p2Yte1G-gNOZluSln4s2GwZTSyhiTRVcqiAEleujQZYmNo2DeN-DmBif3qkCCexgqqRrlkP-3BYZFdTL5A/s1600-h/slider.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356358148961181394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4usTwfxoEnYJAk7bWCrVR-YjkCirM6z8fiy6VeMwy9ebsfc0onC0wbfdE7p2Yte1G-gNOZluSln4s2GwZTSyhiTRVcqiAEleujQZYmNo2DeN-DmBif3qkCCexgqqRrlkP-3BYZFdTL5A/s320/slider.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 320px; width: 320px;" /></a>
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The Igus order number for a complete system with 1 meter long rail and 150 mm sledge is <em>WK-10-80-15-01, 1000</em> (the first number is the rail diameter in millimeters, second is the rail width followed by length of sledge, number of sledges and rail length).<br />
The DryLin-W railsystem is a maintainance free, self lubricating linear guide system. It is available in three rail diameters: 10, 16 and 20 mm.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOaqpCAcJVkF4hWMKeI04hvTRr7xKa6jsXY-GTcsUBtV7C6-rjiSDrPgiYXP8sfib18qm90XuSXhx2EKi0eLARNjzx2EuC71EzdeBmKzaAM2e6lDiPbJAFpY58KdgcukiwDyGKY0lFjqo/s1600-h/drylin-w.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356357897711940386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOaqpCAcJVkF4hWMKeI04hvTRr7xKa6jsXY-GTcsUBtV7C6-rjiSDrPgiYXP8sfib18qm90XuSXhx2EKi0eLARNjzx2EuC71EzdeBmKzaAM2e6lDiPbJAFpY58KdgcukiwDyGKY0lFjqo/s320/drylin-w.png" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 320px; width: 295px;" /></a>
<br />
<em><strong>Official Igus procedure for aligning the carriage (needs to be done once).</strong><br />
1. Loosen all carriage bolts - (don't remove - just loosen a few turns)<br />
2. slide carriage back and forth to allow bearings to align themselves<br />
3. Tap the center of the carriage to "bump" the bearings into place<br />
4. With downward pressure on carriage tighten the bolts again a few turns at a time (alternating them - i.e. do NOT crank one down and then do the other ones)</em><br />
Alternatively you could also use the narrower 10-40 system but the savings are minimal. Or for a super strong version for long rails or cameras that weigh more than 3 kg (1.5 lb) use the 16-60 system. <a href="http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=145701">Read this thread at dvxuser.com</a> for more info and inspiration. (a 10-40 version is shown in post #336 on page 34). Post #475 shows how to move along an arc.<br />
You can order directly from Igus. They have offices around the world. More info at <a href="http://www.drylin-w.de/wpck/default.aspx?PageName=DRYLIN_W&CL=DE-en">Drylin-W.de</a><br />
This is about all you need when you move the camera manually. You can also build a hand cranked version if you wish. I went a step further and motorized the whole assembly.<br />
<h2>
Controller board</h2>
<em>Arduino Duemilanove (or Arduino Uno see update below)</em> or <em>Arduino Nano</em> USB I/O controller board. Visit <a href="http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Hardware">arduino.cc</a> for more information and where to buy it.<br />
Costs: Arduino about 25 EUR, Arduino Nano about 50 EUR.<br />
The current (as of 2009) Arduino is called Duemilanove which is italian for "2009". It is meant to be used with a "shield", an interface board that sits on top of the Arduino.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNDMJCZE7HpX78AMP6M1MjXsgvN_CPW8MbJg7oe7mpZd6F9JcM9wuUzWN-e5KuwdwiF58M0noo0Agcq6Uhq7fCalhXvRhEO1sToNsl8DFk-6lcTcdMGdXK8N335DVFvGNGEiE8Iqm_OQk/s1600-h/arduino.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356357874200475090" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNDMJCZE7HpX78AMP6M1MjXsgvN_CPW8MbJg7oe7mpZd6F9JcM9wuUzWN-e5KuwdwiF58M0noo0Agcq6Uhq7fCalhXvRhEO1sToNsl8DFk-6lcTcdMGdXK8N335DVFvGNGEiE8Iqm_OQk/s320/arduino.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 190px; width: 320px;" /></a>
<br />
I used the Arduino Nano. It offers the same features in a smaller 30 pin package that can be used just like an integrated circuit. You need an USB to USB mini cable to program it. Such a cable came much likely with your digital camera.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtzQ-vgbiyNrNy91RYPFZCf1_hyKntiRuCAigWeNC4oF2J7y4E68ZC4rXDrmIKzcIGP71AzzX_tLcHQcGSf0CcEvgwnK3fXjFHXQzyot_KEkHoshMUOmMmswULzUIyev1tyCij5l7C5eo/s1600-h/arduinonano.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356360105223649490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtzQ-vgbiyNrNy91RYPFZCf1_hyKntiRuCAigWeNC4oF2J7y4E68ZC4rXDrmIKzcIGP71AzzX_tLcHQcGSf0CcEvgwnK3fXjFHXQzyot_KEkHoshMUOmMmswULzUIyev1tyCij5l7C5eo/s320/arduinonano.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 154px; width: 320px;" /></a>
<br />
<h2>
Software</h2>
Download and install the <a href="http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software">Arduino software</a> for Windows, Mac OS X or Linux.<br />
Costs: free.<br />
Copy and paste the following Arduino sketch into the developing enviroment and download it to the board. Make sure to choose the correct board under Tools>Hardware. If you use an Arduino Nano replace the digital output numbers with the ones in the comment. Once downloaded the Arduino executes the sketch on its own. Every time power is turned on or the tiny reset button is pressed the sketch starts. <br />
<pre>/*
Move an unipolar stepper motor
Version 2.0 with simpler, leaner code
2010, Martin Koch
http://canon-hf100.blogspot.com/
----------------------------------------
Use a 12 V, 0.16 A to 0.5 A unipolar (6 wires) stepper motor
If you use the Arduino Nano assign these digital output numbers:
#define D0 2
#define D1 3
#define D2 4
#define D3 5
*/
// Arduino digital output numbers
#define D0 13
#define D1 12
#define D2 11
#define D3 10
int rpm = 30; //revolutions per minute (keep below 100)
void setup() {
pinMode(D0, OUTPUT);
pinMode(D1, OUTPUT);
pinMode(D2, OUTPUT);
pinMode(D3, OUTPUT);
delay(1000);
//Choose number of steps by trial and error
//so the slide runs the whole length of the DryLin W rail
for (int step=0; step<9000; step++) {
moveMotor(step);
delay (150 / rpm);
}
motorOff();
}
void loop() {
// run again and again (not used)
}
void moveMotor(int step) {
switch (step % 8) // Half steps (step modulo 8 ensures 0 to 7 cycles)
{
case 0: //1000
digitalWrite(D0, HIGH);
digitalWrite(D1, LOW);
digitalWrite(D2, LOW);
digitalWrite(D3, LOW);
break;
case 1: //1100
digitalWrite(D0, HIGH);
digitalWrite(D1, HIGH);
digitalWrite(D2, LOW);
digitalWrite(D3, LOW);
break;
case 2: //0100
digitalWrite(D0, LOW);
digitalWrite(D1, HIGH);
digitalWrite(D2, LOW);
digitalWrite(D3, LOW);
break;
case 3: //0110
digitalWrite(D0, LOW);
digitalWrite(D1, HIGH);
digitalWrite(D2, HIGH);
digitalWrite(D3, LOW);
break;
case 4: //0010
digitalWrite(D0, LOW);
digitalWrite(D1, LOW);
digitalWrite(D2, HIGH);
digitalWrite(D3, LOW);
break;
case 5: //0011
digitalWrite(D0, LOW);
digitalWrite(D1, LOW);
digitalWrite(D2, HIGH);
digitalWrite(D3, HIGH);
break;
case 6: //0001
digitalWrite(D0, LOW);
digitalWrite(D1, LOW);
digitalWrite(D2, LOW);
digitalWrite(D3, HIGH);
break;
case 7: //1001
digitalWrite(D0, HIGH);
digitalWrite(D1, LOW);
digitalWrite(D2, LOW);
digitalWrite(D3, HIGH);
break;
}
return;
}
void motorOff() {
digitalWrite(D0, LOW);
digitalWrite(D1, LOW);
digitalWrite(D2, LOW);
digitalWrite(D3, LOW);
}
</pre>
There's also an Arduino stepper motor class available but I prefered to write my own stepping motor control code just for fun. To cut noise the motor is operated in half step mode so it doesn't offer the full torque but the ULN2803A interface allows to connect twice as strong motors.<br />
<h2>
Stepping motor</h2>
Small 12V unipolar (6 wires) stepping motor with maximal 0.5 A per winding. <br />
Costs: about 30 EUR.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZZA_R-K6KVG7VXD4QGia9YLtuKuXRV8J2BAxfqAIQSf7ySF2bl9yrz9LEVS0478yjuDbG70cePI3kGFR2_jfnhf8e5bl3qAFNgNpoqMfLrsCIOGjbzOiq54zrdQ8ectYSrqAmdBFWppY/s1600-h/steppermotor.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356358153770394898" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZZA_R-K6KVG7VXD4QGia9YLtuKuXRV8J2BAxfqAIQSf7ySF2bl9yrz9LEVS0478yjuDbG70cePI3kGFR2_jfnhf8e5bl3qAFNgNpoqMfLrsCIOGjbzOiq54zrdQ8ectYSrqAmdBFWppY/s320/steppermotor.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 186px; width: 320px;" /></a>
<br />
My stepping motor needs just 0.16 A per winding and offers a force of just 70 mNm (0.070 Nm = 0.62 Pound-force inches). Nonetheless it is still able to horizontally pull loads up to 6 kg (3 lb). I bought it from <a href="http://www.rs-online.com/">RS-Components</a>. The part number is <em>440-436</em>. In order to fit my interface I had to rearrange the wires. To loosen a wire in the type of connector shown above use a needle to press in the latch from the front then pull out the wire. The wire easily clicks in place at the new location. If you use the same motor the wire arrangement in the plug should be B brown, E brown, A white, F blue, C red, D yellow.<br />
<h2>
Interface</h2>
1 ULN2803A integrated circuit, prototyping board, connection pins, wire<br />
Costs: A few Euros.<br />
The interface is as simple as it can get. Make sure to connect the stepping motor wires as shown in the schematic.<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Schematic for Arduino board</span> <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTstHDp2A1JVMOSOWvB4hS6NDxGo3GEZcPfuZnMFmDU_a73FCRa0W4zL8PSZ3GRIchuAXwh0Kaph3N5ylAKobRuhEiG2I_23wS51j8s_I3EF_pZwXyl7s0O9FfxFdWQZ5JnSHTR_ZWov8/s1600-h/arduino.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356357879407241250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTstHDp2A1JVMOSOWvB4hS6NDxGo3GEZcPfuZnMFmDU_a73FCRa0W4zL8PSZ3GRIchuAXwh0Kaph3N5ylAKobRuhEiG2I_23wS51j8s_I3EF_pZwXyl7s0O9FfxFdWQZ5JnSHTR_ZWov8/s320/arduino.png" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 320px; width: 234px;" /></a>
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Schematic for Arduino Nano board</span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihLMZhcyejdXVWlGEu2Zc8-Llm5STjSRvMc8NNTSJ7ScZ-l0FVJEesp15TW9Y9Byx8t4CpQHBWgOpL7PCssm5YZJpt6Xx6mkFv3moNdaiHM41vCxbkAs5N73mjz8jXI0kFFKieWnqmE30/s1600-h/arduino_nano.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356357881118594530" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihLMZhcyejdXVWlGEu2Zc8-Llm5STjSRvMc8NNTSJ7ScZ-l0FVJEesp15TW9Y9Byx8t4CpQHBWgOpL7PCssm5YZJpt6Xx6mkFv3moNdaiHM41vCxbkAs5N73mjz8jXI0kFFKieWnqmE30/s320/arduino_nano.png" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 320px; width: 229px;" /></a>
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6wRCC_SSo3Pe6JIYB7LFO9TPx62FF5O7tlRD0W4B02f2O1piHr6Z_yR79hUVtNo4qmNZYKWM60vstepTiaR7GV-G3DShMNaMTRdHYUace-kVMNWXej2nbqm9foPz-8UKfM0S_8lRz0k4/s1600-h/interface.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356357890880056514" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6wRCC_SSo3Pe6JIYB7LFO9TPx62FF5O7tlRD0W4B02f2O1piHr6Z_yR79hUVtNo4qmNZYKWM60vstepTiaR7GV-G3DShMNaMTRdHYUace-kVMNWXej2nbqm9foPz-8UKfM0S_8lRz0k4/s320/interface.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 222px; width: 320px;" /></a>
<br />
<small>This board also shows a 5 V relais (orange part) that is used to trigger a still camera.</small><br />
<h2>
Battery</h2>
A small maintainance-free 12 V lead battery with about 2 Ah is inexpensive and sufficient for hours of continuous operation. <br />
Costs: about 20 EUR.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijPM1655P3i19-_UvSOTRP-4Q7AQswdLrDt07C37oyohG50xU4XHwRhJt9jSRDBjUuzkUgAPJW2qlen245L6r6EugQBD4db9U7O22Rf_YBzRPMY-a2dGWYENkRpgiY4fgoICCPXyvIYBw/s1600-h/leadbattery.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356358140533676354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijPM1655P3i19-_UvSOTRP-4Q7AQswdLrDt07C37oyohG50xU4XHwRhJt9jSRDBjUuzkUgAPJW2qlen245L6r6EugQBD4db9U7O22Rf_YBzRPMY-a2dGWYENkRpgiY4fgoICCPXyvIYBw/s320/leadbattery.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 147px; width: 320px;" /></a>
<br />
You'll also need a lead battery charger<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMMRTnYzS3uyQqekEKtCZ1Acyn2K_QMmnXtHER-RZrejwK5h8uCPFh1fW1i0cQDzi3sFDEvsgeIXH9QvBCJxkGJCLJb2Cl8O-n0AwQzTf7mX8OBhj4Hc8vXo9Ok1kKRqi4ugdVUCCdtls/s1600-h/leadbatterycharger.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356358145953103970" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMMRTnYzS3uyQqekEKtCZ1Acyn2K_QMmnXtHER-RZrejwK5h8uCPFh1fW1i0cQDzi3sFDEvsgeIXH9QvBCJxkGJCLJb2Cl8O-n0AwQzTf7mX8OBhj4Hc8vXo9Ok1kKRqi4ugdVUCCdtls/s320/leadbatterycharger.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 219px; width: 320px;" /></a>
<br />
<h2>
Assembly</h2>
The most silent solution is to use a nylon rope to pull the sledge across the track. It works in one direction only but by turning the whole assembly by 180° its easily possible to move in the opposite direction.<br />
<em>The usual camera move is from left to right just as we read. It tells the viewer that everything is alright. If you want to disturb the viewer move the camera from right to left.</em><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfJ3QC9yUSeavvDkGQ8oKKHwX3eTaI6275OwkA5YREcloR0sysZPr3TXl8F2oSVNWW4hEotRcHDKl7Dy41J7m-N1GNBm4YOS60JOWiU8LHWX4i_74YDUOJGoNAwKOChYFkS5njuTeVRVI/s1600-h/winder.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356358616741007986" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfJ3QC9yUSeavvDkGQ8oKKHwX3eTaI6275OwkA5YREcloR0sysZPr3TXl8F2oSVNWW4hEotRcHDKl7Dy41J7m-N1GNBm4YOS60JOWiU8LHWX4i_74YDUOJGoNAwKOChYFkS5njuTeVRVI/s320/winder.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 208px; width: 320px;" /></a>
<br />
The rope bobbin can be made on a lathe.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin6G9aNaFO_iSTGrD6njG5-VSS_FqEudkplyJa7t7HlEgoTYHMGghmbpebM2eOV_saZGHkPCTs02Cb6l999QPzc7RvyZUWbXA1a8lmxjUtrCAMTN3w-1wTBF0GBhtOGlEmxpWGzxoWoOg/s1600-h/winder.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356358622329618002" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin6G9aNaFO_iSTGrD6njG5-VSS_FqEudkplyJa7t7HlEgoTYHMGghmbpebM2eOV_saZGHkPCTs02Cb6l999QPzc7RvyZUWbXA1a8lmxjUtrCAMTN3w-1wTBF0GBhtOGlEmxpWGzxoWoOg/s320/winder.png" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 320px; width: 295px;" /></a>
<br />
The whole assembly is not completly silent but silent enough to be usable. The noise of the stepper motor is cut significantly by using <a href="http://www.conrad.de/goto.php?artikel=546382">rubber mounting bolts</a>.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQqaFsAhHK_7y8wLdELnbECJIEN7UeHAME6WLLzcLnMRgh-5DB5Dlrycfnn9Tkt473BmuoFxTf1rfsUOJr_R6KxChCJGCD-R45fnQwEF0zGoxBjcc7A6GtEo2c9tMLmcp9JH2_GOR0X9E/s1600-h/steppermotormount.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356358613240513650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQqaFsAhHK_7y8wLdELnbECJIEN7UeHAME6WLLzcLnMRgh-5DB5Dlrycfnn9Tkt473BmuoFxTf1rfsUOJr_R6KxChCJGCD-R45fnQwEF0zGoxBjcc7A6GtEo2c9tMLmcp9JH2_GOR0X9E/s320/steppermotormount.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 161px; width: 320px;" /></a>
<br />
<h2>
Ideas</h2>
If you don't mind the noise (e.g. music video) you can also use a d.c. motor with gear assembly. The Arduino board offers pulse width modulation (PWM) control to set different speeds.<br />
The Arduino board also offers analog and digital inputs so you can wire a potentiometer or switches to set different speeds.<br />
The possibilities are endless and it's fun to play with the Arduino system. I recommend the book "<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Getting-Started-Arduino-Make-Projects/dp/0596155514">Getting started with Arduino</a>" for an easy start.<br />
Here's an example video: <a href="http://www.vimeo.com/5535135">vimeo.com/5535135</a><br />
<hr />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Update March 9, 2010:</span> I updated the Arduino sketch above with a simpler and leaner version that does the same.<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Update November 20, 2010:</span> There's a new <a href="http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Hardware">Arduino UNO</a> available which replaces the Arduino Duemilanove and works the same.<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Update February 15, 2011:</span> If you use the Arduino UNO it's best to built the interface circuit on a <a href="http://www.watterott.com/en/Freeduino-Proto-Shield-Kit">ProtoShield</a> that can be plugged directly into the Arduino.<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Update June 19, 2011:</span> As far as I know Igus doesn't sell directly to individuals any longer but they offer ready-made sliders with predrilled 3/8" hole at <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056IE4CQ">Amazon.com</a>.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglN3bZKC_i0zCRmfs54Fx7734ZSBUCRIrHjysaD_GpvU8g2GDe2a_xm-zEDr-lXm7eNnpku-U4N-lPNLR1GCC1WEI4dA1MyuFxtiLktlHZ9mvm7z2BgRjQp94-lgokGjXjHbMHBRUnsEs/s1600/igus-amazon.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="295" width="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglN3bZKC_i0zCRmfs54Fx7734ZSBUCRIrHjysaD_GpvU8g2GDe2a_xm-zEDr-lXm7eNnpku-U4N-lPNLR1GCC1WEI4dA1MyuFxtiLktlHZ9mvm7z2BgRjQp94-lgokGjXjHbMHBRUnsEs/s400/igus-amazon.png" /></a></div><br clear="all" />
The image from Amazon above shows that you need 8 bolts to properly fasten the plate to the four linear bearings.<br /><br />
Do you want an even leaner code? Well I recently learned how to use the Arduino stepper library with an unipolar stepper motor. It's way simpler to use than I thought and although I haven't tested the code below I post it to give you an idea how little code is neccessary using the Stepper.h library included with the Arduino software download:<br />
<pre>
#include <Stepper.h> //include the function library
#define STEPS 200 //1.8 deg motor (200 steps per revolution)
#define D0 13 // Arduino digital output numbers
#define D1 12
#define D2 11
#define D3 10
Stepper stepper(STEPS, D0, D1, D2, D3); //create the stepper
void setup()
{
stepper.setSpeed(30); //set speed to 30 rpm
delay(1000);
stepper.step(200); //move 200 steps = 360 deg in one direction
delay(1000);
stepper.step(-200); //move 200 steps = 360 deg in the opposite direction
}
void loop()
{}
</pre>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com97tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-30289479723981495482009-06-04T19:34:00.012+02:002009-06-04T20:38:25.909+02:00ClipWrap 2 allows native AVCHD playback and editing on a Mac<p><a href="http://www.clipwrap.com">ClipWrap 2.0</a> lets you quickly rewrap individual .MTS files into QuickTime .MOV files that can be played back in the QuickTime player or imported into Final Cut. But see yourself:</p>
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/wjN0So-_t9w&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/wjN0So-_t9w&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
<p>Note that Version 2 of ClipWrap is not available yet but it should come this summer (2009). </p>
<p><small>Hehe, I know this chicken in the YouTube clip above.</small></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-196019276063000822009-05-10T14:05:00.018+02:002009-05-10T17:53:57.710+02:00H.264 encoding formula<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggy2kt91ZhRPRj1FAqgKmHxOHed3Njrf4QR-x3vZn3SS23VHJna0-GazN6B_eM7suJ-uvd2JhvTFq211jatCZVY4ckD-J-4NzVFmsLIdxvVEF02pGUR_RRkwHAssLSC95QPKRIRXsWkSA/s1600-h/h264forrestofus.png"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 158px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggy2kt91ZhRPRj1FAqgKmHxOHed3Njrf4QR-x3vZn3SS23VHJna0-GazN6B_eM7suJ-uvd2JhvTFq211jatCZVY4ckD-J-4NzVFmsLIdxvVEF02pGUR_RRkwHAssLSC95QPKRIRXsWkSA/s200/h264forrestofus.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5334179643786836146" /></a>
<p>Kush Amerasinghe, an engineer at Adobe has written an interesting primer on H.264 compression called <a href="http://www.adobe.com/devnet/flashmediaserver/articles/h264_primer.html">"H.264 for the rest of us"</a>.<br />
In this easy to understand paper he presents a very useful formula for estimating the video bitrate needed:</p>
<pre>Bitrate [ kbps ] = Width * Height * fps * Motion * 0.07 / 1000</pre>
<p><small><span style="font-weight:bold;">Width, height</span>: Pixels<br />
<span style="font-weight:bold;">fps</span>: Frames per second<br />
<span style="font-weight:bold;">Motion</span>: Low = 1, Medium = 2, High = 4</small></p>
<p><em>Quote from the paper:</em><br />
<blockquote>•<span style="font-weight:bold;"> Low motion</span> is a video that has minimal movement. For example, a person talking in front of a camera without moving much while the camera itself and the background is not moving at all.<br />
• <span style="font-weight:bold;">Medium motion</span> would be some degree of movement, but in a more predictable and orderly manner, which means some relatively slow camera and subject movements, but not many scene changes or cuts or sudden snap camera movements or zooms where the entire picture changes into something completely different instantaneously.<br />
• <span style="font-weight:bold;">High motion</span> would be something like the most challenging action movie trailer, where not only the movements are fast and unpredictable but the scenes also change very rapidly.</p></blockquote>
<p>Example for a 25 fps video:<br />
Low motion: 1280 x 720 x 25 * <span style="font-weight:bold;">1</span> * 0.07 / 1000 = app. 1500 kbps<br />
Medium motion: 1280 x 720 x 25 * <span style="font-weight:bold;">2</span> * 0.07 / 1000 = app. 3000 kbps<br />
High motion:1280 x 720 x 25 * <span style="font-weight:bold;">4</span> * 0.07 / 1000 = app. 6500 kbpsUnknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-79274439317193258512009-04-08T19:49:00.020+02:002009-04-09T09:07:54.290+02:00Getting a grip on the HF100<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjstJRrbJV4crA-HHeeyJZpEmLKlTwZyjHX3WKPWCAp-k2oBTNOEZFewdXpB8XikPTFFr3NNuNNEH7UOu6vP_YyUwpX6cCSY6XxfGISbkvJa8ssZ2ezZWMtm0ZEAWwJyASuaS7EnqQurFQ/s1600-h/HandleBar3.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjstJRrbJV4crA-HHeeyJZpEmLKlTwZyjHX3WKPWCAp-k2oBTNOEZFewdXpB8XikPTFFr3NNuNNEH7UOu6vP_YyUwpX6cCSY6XxfGISbkvJa8ssZ2ezZWMtm0ZEAWwJyASuaS7EnqQurFQ/s400/HandleBar3.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5322583802644988002" /></a>
<br />
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQEHnOtW3kQE20Ac1EIPw0T_9-DuVVOo5nVziZnC3Km2kkeY0omykpet2T5kWnrAxdY3ligVyYP5dOKce0E0aocxDdaE4zxBFKA172QXi5lyhS3EXfOga230jWhA1SUCpir6NGMEupjaE/s1600-h/HandleBar2.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 170px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQEHnOtW3kQE20Ac1EIPw0T_9-DuVVOo5nVziZnC3Km2kkeY0omykpet2T5kWnrAxdY3ligVyYP5dOKce0E0aocxDdaE4zxBFKA172QXi5lyhS3EXfOga230jWhA1SUCpir6NGMEupjaE/s400/HandleBar2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5322379844972434290" /></a>
<p>Such a handle bar improves your handheld video shooting because it allows to have a firm grip on your HF100. It has wings like the <a href="http://www.steadywing.com">SteadyWing</a> the professional black of the <a href="http://services.manfrotto.com/figrig">Fig Rig</a> and the balls from the <a href="http://www.infomedia-sh.de/index.php?page=nl_0506_steadygrip">SteadyGrip</a>.</p>
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhoAyHe91yLQOwempBX7VBJAB0_B-vmUM3avt7UnULGtpJa5Fm7iSTUSJk_zA4fp2cP-udURlctertoyNoM3edcOKa7YYKAVTbXLuMgNG8pqhXJA5zhICjKLrf8cMLe7l24HKl7OTkjwU/s1600-h/HandleBar.png"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 138px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhoAyHe91yLQOwempBX7VBJAB0_B-vmUM3avt7UnULGtpJa5Fm7iSTUSJk_zA4fp2cP-udURlctertoyNoM3edcOKa7YYKAVTbXLuMgNG8pqhXJA5zhICjKLrf8cMLe7l24HKl7OTkjwU/s400/HandleBar.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5322379836166127554" /></a>
<p>I wanted a good looking solution and found a 350 mm wide and 10 mm thick black anodized bow handle at <a href="http://www.norelem.de">norelem.de</a>. I also ordered other parts from them. You can find the part numbers in the drawing above. Since the 40 mm balls have a M10 thread and the handle a M6 one I also ordered two 10 mm / 6 mm Helicoil thread adapters. Unfortunately the thread adapters didn't fit. I found out that a normal M10 thread is M10 x 1.5 while those Helicoil adapters are M10 x 1.25. My solution made on a lathe is shown below. </p>
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXoI60bNqP_HtGADEfnLr9CgBgpP8FnLIXxr-JgEP7UpbvCyolf3_A5_-CzoLD8q6LucmrQ0fhebVrJl5bP2mIZv-cLpWY1cakGOc37ivGvQRReOGNWdR11G-Ni5-s2hAWMMg5PFRpV54/s1600-h/HandleBar1.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 325px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXoI60bNqP_HtGADEfnLr9CgBgpP8FnLIXxr-JgEP7UpbvCyolf3_A5_-CzoLD8q6LucmrQ0fhebVrJl5bP2mIZv-cLpWY1cakGOc37ivGvQRReOGNWdR11G-Ni5-s2hAWMMg5PFRpV54/s400/HandleBar1.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5322379839577364850" /></a>
<p>The Quick Change Adapter is mounted from above using a M6 bolt with countersunk head. This required cutting a M6 thread in the middle of the handle bar and countersinking the adapter. Alternatively the Quick Change Adapter can also be fastened through a 6.5 mm hole from below using a 1/4" screw.</p>
<p>For mounting the balls I drilled a piece of M10 threaded rod and cut a M6 thread into it. There are also <a href="http://www.dienadel.de/cgi-bin/cosmoshop/lshop.cgi?action=showdetail&artnum=20803">ready-made M10 to M6 thread adapters</a> available.</p>
<p>Another interesting solution "to get a grip" on tiny camcorders like the HF100 is the <a href="http://www.foddis.com//index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=22&Itemid=38">Foddis Pico</a>.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-27515158971401345882009-03-24T23:09:00.001+01:002009-03-24T23:10:34.776+01:00My new lens hood for the HF100<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVnnDEYw_nYQSqQL4fH0c3jSHe9trE0Lt7vX8zDCGog0kveEPBirhmMABfYe6co2_XXqLxwHItPa-l-TyyX14okSaKAlbFw4bPg_tJPaxqAdVxRaah1gInnOeb5A49l_jA7lzPKWsQHxE/s1600-h/mennon-lens-hood.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 210px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVnnDEYw_nYQSqQL4fH0c3jSHe9trE0Lt7vX8zDCGog0kveEPBirhmMABfYe6co2_XXqLxwHItPa-l-TyyX14okSaKAlbFw4bPg_tJPaxqAdVxRaah1gInnOeb5A49l_jA7lzPKWsQHxE/s320/mennon-lens-hood.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5316880020670607010" /></a>
<p>This lens hood is made by <a href="http://www.mennon-usa.com/store/dvb-37-37mm-digital-video-lens-hood-with-bayonet-mount-black-pu-218.html">Mennon</a>. It's available in black or silver and is mounted on a 37mm filter. It even comes with a cap. I ordered it from <a href="http://www.enjoyyourcamera.com/Lens-Accessories/Lens-Hoods/Clamping-Connection/Mennon-Lens-Hood-for-Video-Cameras-and-Camcorders-37mm-BM::700.html">EnjoyYourCamera.com</a> in Germany.</p>
<p>Mennon also produces a <a href="http://www.mennon-usa.com/store/dvs-37-screw-mount-37mm-digital-video-lens-hood-with-cap-silver-pu-275.html">screw-in lens hood</a> with 37mm thread that fits the camcorder directly without the need for a filter. But since an UV or IR blocking filter also protects the lens I strongly suggest to use one.</p>
<p>Note that such a wide lens hood blocks the iAF sensor, the LED light and the flash. Since I don't use any of these that's not a problem for me. I don't film fast moving objects and I don't want the camera to change focus too quickly therefore I'm fine with the slower contrast auto focus through the lens.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-57795682709247856152009-03-21T21:48:00.034+01:002009-07-11T09:56:15.191+02:00Better sound with the Sennheiser MKE 400<p>I neglected audio for a long time. The built-in microphones are not bad but a good external microphone sounds better.</p>
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGG7SKqjjus6ZgQAaDB0J5vllkaAGVFXfPVuqeKNbTog9a1EhDZtxUo_VFMuzz1Bz_Qu2UrdxhJSQo6MTCOPawNPSBdEb7yCqQIfDUwFBkv3sBTw8Yg3VaUf46DN9MTldYazD62KWEBBk/s1600-h/mke400_1.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 287px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGG7SKqjjus6ZgQAaDB0J5vllkaAGVFXfPVuqeKNbTog9a1EhDZtxUo_VFMuzz1Bz_Qu2UrdxhJSQo6MTCOPawNPSBdEb7yCqQIfDUwFBkv3sBTw8Yg3VaUf46DN9MTldYazD62KWEBBk/s320/mke400_1.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5316445459498997666" /></a>
<p>I've chosen the <a href="http://www.sennheiser.com/sennheiser/home_en.nsf/product.html?ReadForm&path=professional_wired-microphones_camera-mics&product=502047&row=1">Sennheiser MKE 400</a> because of it's small size and good reviews. It records directional mono sound and is powered by a single AAA sized battery which allows about 300 hours operation time.</p>
<p>The MKE 400 recordings have much less noise and sound more transparent and natural but somewhat "thinner" with more treble and less bass. But listen for yourself:</p>
<object width="400" height="225"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=3822553&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=3822553&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="225"></embed></object><br /><a href="http://vimeo.com/3822553">Canon HF100 + Sennheiser MKE 400</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user401504">Martin Koch</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.
<p>I used two HF100 for this comparison. Both camcorders where about 1.5 m (5 feet) away. Wind cut was off. Both HF100 where manually set to the same audio recording level (green indicator at the -12 dB mark)<sup>*</sup>. The MKE400 was set to "+" in order to have the same sensitivity as the built-in microphones. I recommend the "+" setting since the first amplication stage is the most critical and the preamp in the MKE 400 is most likely of higher quality (less noise) than that of the HF100.</p>
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqOe1ozRZ1ufhserMdOlBFN2aIYlSLr1RefC9gSN_ZI9AZzTYvTDr9s8pGud53a-i15i739_UT9lksf3JSnnQsWzKokb3rUZNr9V0bMg8-lr-6wUz5WK3Fnf-_zNp2rFW9-j0UGuoAFUo/s1600-h/mke400_2.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 242px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqOe1ozRZ1ufhserMdOlBFN2aIYlSLr1RefC9gSN_ZI9AZzTYvTDr9s8pGud53a-i15i739_UT9lksf3JSnnQsWzKokb3rUZNr9V0bMg8-lr-6wUz5WK3Fnf-_zNp2rFW9-j0UGuoAFUo/s320/mke400_2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5316445467714451698" /></a>
<p>Note that the MKE400 doesn't fit into the Mini Advanced Accessory Shoe of the HF100 without some sort of adaption. The simplest solution is to file the 18 mm wide plastic foot of the MKE 400 microphone to a width of 16 mm as shown in the photo above. By doing so you are able to slide the foot into the Mini Advanced Accessory Shoe plus you can still fasten the microphone securely on any standard flash shoe. </p>
<p>Ready-made adapters are available too. I found this <a href="http://www.cameragrip.co.uk/acatalog/info_431.html">Hague shoe adapter</a> and <a href="http://www.adorama.com/VDCMSFLAT.html">this adapter at Adorama</a> or <a href="http://shop.dm-accessories.com/products/cms-flat">DM-Accessories</a>. By using such adapters you will also have extra distance between the microphone and the zoom lever of the HF100. Without there's a chance to touch the microphone while zooming which would produce unwanted noise. </p>
<p><strong>Caution:</strong> If you make your own adapter use plastics material inside the mini accessory shoe since a short cut at the electrical contacts will damage the camera. Or stay clear of the electrical contacts like <a href="http://shop.dm-accessories.com/products/cms-flat">this adapter made of aluminum</a>.</p>
<p>What's about the Canon DM-100 accessory microphone? It has no connection problems and it has two important advantages. First there's no audio cable since the electrical connections are made inside the Mini Advanced Accessory Shoe. It also doesn't need an extra battery since the power is supplied via the HF100. A big plus.</p>
<p>So despite all these advantages why didn't I order it? Because it's strange that you can't find a detailed description of this microphone on Canons website or in the HF100 manual. Very strange. I finally found an <a href="http://www.amazon.com/review/R21RH45UD1Z8VZ/ref=cm_cr_rdp_perm">DM-100 review at amazon</a> that reveals the technical data. E.g. 100 - 10,000 Hz in shot gun mode doesn't sound too convincing. The frequency response in stereo mode remains Canons secret. If Canon would be proud of their product they certainly would offer more information or even sound samples. Somehow it looks like another overpriced accessory. Unfortunately I had no possibility to actually try it out. You can see the DM-100 up close and personal in this clip:</p>
<object width="480" height="295"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/TDMtQFn6utQ&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/TDMtQFn6utQ&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="295"></embed></object>
<p>Sennheiser on the other hand offers all specifications including a polar pattern diagram at the their website. The MKE 400 is also smaller than the DM-100 and it can be used on other cameras. I'm very pleased with it.</p>
<p>Of course the Sennheiser MKE 400 is a compromise between size and sound quality. There are better, fuller sounding microphones (<a href="http://www.rodemic.com">Rhode</a> make good ones) but all are much larger than the Sennheiser and will not fit as well to the HF100.</p>
<p>What's about stereo? It depends on what you're filming. You may want stereo in a wide angle shot of a large orchestra or of a car passing by in the distance but most of the time it will be a single sound source and narrow field of view so mono will be sufficient. The MKE400 is a directional microphone designed to isolate a single sound source so mono makes sense.</p>
<small><sup>*</sup>To set equal audio levels on two cameras play a continuous, constant tone. I looped a <a href="http://www.dogstar.dantimax.dk/acoustic/acoust-0.htm">660 Hz sine wave recording</a> using the QuickTime player.</small>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-22938525684325251812009-03-13T11:41:00.006+01:002009-03-13T13:42:10.438+01:00Wired control for the HF100<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9EVZ8fdVa9TLW26aQpSw5LXEQ0AOTasKuxw0_Af6Mm6YvfXQ_O8_pCtvGWNOOjJzwPqKnLR6y1P_ZQeuAeKDoJ8YRMDVepQKcD0DUVOO2iGM3f3CzT2z5NWt9KEm3IjxJoE_vm9iO0R8/s1600-h/hinterkamera.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 258px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9EVZ8fdVa9TLW26aQpSw5LXEQ0AOTasKuxw0_Af6Mm6YvfXQ_O8_pCtvGWNOOjJzwPqKnLR6y1P_ZQeuAeKDoJ8YRMDVepQKcD0DUVOO2iGM3f3CzT2z5NWt9KEm3IjxJoE_vm9iO0R8/s400/hinterkamera.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5312620952023710482" /></a>
<p>Professional camcorders often have an optional controller unit which allows to control the camcorder while having the hands on the video tripod. If you also want this luxury with your HF100 you might find a <a href="http://forum.slashcam.de/hintercamerabedienung-fur-hf100-vp343918.html?sid=6c4a00f95f44183cf92b576c7a6b1832#343918"> solution by the user "Modellbahner" at the Slashcam.de Forum</a> interesting. Remote sensor and wireless control are simply connected by an audio fiber-optics (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TOSLINK">TOSLINK</a>) cable.</p>
<p><small>The photos above are form the forum entry.</small></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-37987367564951563932009-02-25T16:35:00.004+01:002009-02-25T17:04:36.150+01:00.MTS file preview in OS X Finder<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZVAQdUFtsnwSAp15EB9R8VPIx3g2rIHRsMUrUE0Wrc_aAEkrFxu65UKy3mo6HdoxK902knWfhL2SvIPGVTn-EGVH9Yo1h8-Sd8uZPw5w5dx__glVszP7v3yJJimJJSXmtGRvoGd_o-A4/s1600-h/HDQuickLook.png"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 396px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZVAQdUFtsnwSAp15EB9R8VPIx3g2rIHRsMUrUE0Wrc_aAEkrFxu65UKy3mo6HdoxK902knWfhL2SvIPGVTn-EGVH9Yo1h8-Sd8uZPw5w5dx__glVszP7v3yJJimJJSXmtGRvoGd_o-A4/s400/HDQuickLook.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306762607687952674" /></a>
<p>The $6.99 <a href="http://www.shedworx.com/hdquicklook">HD Quick Look plugin</a> by shedworx.com allows a thumbnail preview of the first frame of .MTS AVCHD files in the OS X Finder.</p>
<p>They also offer <a href="http://www.shedworx.com/voltaichd">VoltaicHD</a> which allows conversion of standalone .MTS files to other QuickTime video formats without the need for the entire AVCHD file structure.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-42156735167739027802009-02-23T20:51:00.022+01:002009-02-23T22:34:29.572+01:00HF100 Red Saw Tooth Fix for Final Cut Pro and Express<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpoMKN9ug7L6KxnvSla-6lnyHo5YDAcxt-JrrAbHz6zgzaZdA4znSAarp7cC2CqonlY85bRcmzWjYM2Qdzkgxu5R9oanDsGFsfaDHPxqYB1eyURtXNjVilT2gQv_0cB-dvz138VlMAM4U/s1600-h/redsawtoothfix.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 231px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpoMKN9ug7L6KxnvSla-6lnyHo5YDAcxt-JrrAbHz6zgzaZdA4znSAarp7cC2CqonlY85bRcmzWjYM2Qdzkgxu5R9oanDsGFsfaDHPxqYB1eyURtXNjVilT2gQv_0cB-dvz138VlMAM4U/s400/redsawtoothfix.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306083382549995378" /></a>
<p>Copy and paste the green text below into a plain text editor</p>
<pre>
scriptid "Red Sawtooth Fix" //DO NOT LOCALIZE
filter "Red Sawtooth Fix";
group "HF100 Fixes";
// Blurs the V channel in YUV a little bit
InformationFlag("YUVaware")
code
float colorSpace;
colorSpace = kFormatYUV219;
BlurChannel(src1, dest, 0/renderres, 1, 0, 0, 0, aspectof(dest));
BlurChannel(src1, dest, 0/renderres, 0, 1, 0, 0, aspectof(dest));
BlurChannel(src1, dest, 0/renderres, 0, 0, 1, 0, aspectof(dest));
BlurChannel(src1, dest, 1/renderres, 0, 0, 0, 1, aspectof(dest));
</pre>
<p>Save the text file as <span style="font-style:italic;">Red Sawtooth Fix.txt</span> in <br />
<code>/Library/Application Support/Final Cut Support/Plugins</code> if you use Final Cut Express or <br />
<code>/Library/Application Support/Final Cut Pro System Support/Plugins</code> if you use Final Cut Pro</p>
<p>Restart Final Cut Pro or Express and look for the filter in the "HF100 Fixes" folder under the Video Filters menu</p>
<p>Apply the filter to any HF100 clip with red color in it and enjoy smoother reds.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-60826229488060619212009-02-23T13:29:00.010+01:002009-02-23T16:56:27.583+01:00HF100 Sawtooth Artefacts in PF25 mode.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzUK8ns_RnxqpXos_J6OVYU8ldovd4vuzCjXmBJQwUVK2hcMFq5GAG0v_TiMUhNU_ik_HKJ9BjzA3bWGxQWEcvfSDdkFfgzR8s-76Psdxf2gLqvom2EQn_f0yWIveytfa8PcL_1zHAezI/s1600-h/interlacedcolorartefacts.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 296px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzUK8ns_RnxqpXos_J6OVYU8ldovd4vuzCjXmBJQwUVK2hcMFq5GAG0v_TiMUhNU_ik_HKJ9BjzA3bWGxQWEcvfSDdkFfgzR8s-76Psdxf2gLqvom2EQn_f0yWIveytfa8PcL_1zHAezI/s400/interlacedcolorartefacts.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305969714024161602" /></a>
<p>I think I got it. There's no need to switch to interlaced recording for better image quality. I somehow understood Adam Wilts review (see previous post) as if the HF11 records better images in interlaced mode. But that was a misinterpretation. What Adam Wilt says is: if you compare progressive recordings of the HF11 to real progressive recordings of a professional camcorder the HF11/10/100 looks less good because of the sawtooth artefacts shown above. A <span style="font-style:italic;">real</span> progressive recording camcorder will not show these artefacts. If he compares interlaced recordings of both camcorders the difference is very small though.</p>
<p>The 1:1 details shown above come from a slowly moving HF100. The progressive recording shows these red sawtooth artefacts because of the interlaced color coding. But the interlaced recording also shows these artefacts <span style="font-style:italic;">plus</span> the typical interlace combs. So if you need progressive frames shoot in PF25 mode and live with the artefacts. I'm glad I don't have to deal with all this annoying deinterlacing stuff.</p>
<p>I don't understand how this interlaced 4:2:0 color coding stuff works but at least now I see the disadvantage of progressive frames recorded in an interlaced format . </p>
<p>Here's an <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chroma_subsampling">Wikipedia article on chroma subsampling</a></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-18815403009737278302009-02-22T22:21:00.005+01:002009-02-23T13:53:09.198+01:00Detailed HF11 Review by a Pro<p>The HF11 has a bit rate of 24 mbits/s, otherwise it's identical to the HF10 and if you forget the internal storage its also identical to the HF100. I just found this <a href="http://provideocoalition.com/index.php/awilt/story/review_canon_vixia_hf11_avchd_camcorder/">review of the HF11 "NTSC" model by Adam Wilt</a>. Its a very interesting read and it becomes quickly clear that this man is a professional who uncovers details I haven't found anywhere else. </p>
<p>One interesting thing is that Mr. Wilt prefers the interlaced recording quality over the progressive one because of the interlaced 4:2:0 color encoding. Take a look at the hummingbird’s head shot on page two of the review. I've seen those red sawthooths in my progressive recordings but couldn't explain why they are there. Now I know. </p>
<p>I think I'm going to take a second look at recording interlaced with my HF100. I knew it doesn't record <span style="font-style:italic;">real </span>progressive frames but I was not aware of the interlaced color encoding.</p>
<p>Update: There's no need to record interlaced if you don't want to. See my next post.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-34737051093959285742009-02-05T10:57:00.000+01:002009-02-05T10:58:29.105+01:00Canon 5D MK II vs Canon HF 100 + 35mm Adapter<object width="400" height="225"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2593395&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2593395&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="225"></embed></object><br /><a href="http://vimeo.com/2593395">Canon 5D MK II vs Canon HF 100 + 35mm Adapter</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user548708">judgesimon</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-89563172315908844182009-01-06T11:19:00.008+01:002009-02-12T14:33:55.992+01:00Canon HF S100 is the better choice<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUD3hDCYQHQgZhUB4u-PxPrYGwU0B2BCBTDGOMmQb6nvWIQdNHkukApZwfI-SqvrXGujauokV13G2uvvZZ5NypS5-WuvaK2D9DtP-h3cF5fLJl7alcTrG1QN7l9MP8jZFTGqGnHdW6_40/s1600-h/LEGRIA_HF_S100.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 182px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUD3hDCYQHQgZhUB4u-PxPrYGwU0B2BCBTDGOMmQb6nvWIQdNHkukApZwfI-SqvrXGujauokV13G2uvvZZ5NypS5-WuvaK2D9DtP-h3cF5fLJl7alcTrG1QN7l9MP8jZFTGqGnHdW6_40/s320/LEGRIA_HF_S100.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5288123830645605282" /></a>
<br />
<h2>Canon HF S100</h2>
<ul>
<li>1/2,6" sensor</li>
<li>1920 x 1080 Full HD</li>
<li>24 Mbps data rate</li>
<li>SDHC-card</li>
<li>43,5 - 435mm lens</li>
<li>Fiter thread: 58mm</li>
<li>April 2009</li>
<li>1300 EUR</li>
</ul>
<p>Some "Pro" features like manual focus, custom button and wheel, zebra pattern or manual sound level control.
Interesting although it would require a new wide angle adapter.</p>
<p>UPDATE: According to <a href="http://www.slashcam.de/artikel/Test/Quo-vadis--Canon--Legria-HF-S10-.html#Einle">this German review</a> the larger sensor area doesn't improve anything for video. Only photos benefit from the higher pixel count. Despite the larger sensor the low light performance didn't improve and the video resolution is in fact lower than that of the HF10/100! They measeured this three times!</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-59528855795593618192009-01-05T11:22:00.005+01:002009-01-05T11:41:06.070+01:00HF200 is going into the wrong directionCanon will offer new HF20 and HF200 models in spring 2009. FullHD and 24 mbits/s but 17 per cent smaller with an even smaller 1/4" image sensor! Imagine this <a href="http://canon-hf100.blogspot.com/2008/05/sensor-size.html">almost microscopic sensor size</a>. Crazy!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-37302980350128551952008-12-29T20:51:00.006+01:002008-12-29T21:36:04.494+01:00ViewSonic VX2260wm FullHD Display<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl3vjXXE4X6S1pQhNmOKjpWCxp8X1bOkPzPsPTM7PkpPHXI1oBfQqABa-DkAezFdAHaUjL_M2xb6XSbm_YeV951fbupKurRQdRXc0Lwj-jX6Bhxy4n-bBeRHjnuYAn5GLZ1IQ4BvAiHkc/s1600-h/ViewSonic-VX2260wm.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 278px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl3vjXXE4X6S1pQhNmOKjpWCxp8X1bOkPzPsPTM7PkpPHXI1oBfQqABa-DkAezFdAHaUjL_M2xb6XSbm_YeV951fbupKurRQdRXc0Lwj-jX6Bhxy4n-bBeRHjnuYAn5GLZ1IQ4BvAiHkc/s320/ViewSonic-VX2260wm.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285307618488160690" /></a>
<p>When <a href="http://canon-hf100.blogspot.com/2008/06/hdmi-output-to-tft-monitor.html">I connected my HF100 to a desktop monitor</a> using a HDMI to DVI cable I only got a 720x576 pixel (4:3) display. I recently learned of the <a href="http://www.viewsonic.com/products/desktop-monitors/lcd/x-series/vx2260wm.htm">ViewSonic VX2260wm</a> desktop monitor which should show the full HD output resolution of the HF100.</p>
<p>I say "should" since I'm cautious and have no experience with this device. If it works though this is an interesting studio monitor solution since Full HD TVs are usually much larger (30" and up), expensive and heavier. The ViewSonic VX2260wm is a 21.5", 16:9 monitor with HDMI input, 1920 x 1080 resolution and a good price.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-27230503908836098632008-09-24T10:36:00.021+02:002008-09-25T10:39:02.995+02:00I'm unhappy<p>I became quite unhappy with the image quality of the HF100. It's always the same. First there was Super VHS and VHS suddenly looked bad. Then came miniDV, then HDV or AVCHD. Every step looked like a big progress. But in fact they where tiny steps, the sensors in the cameras always remained smaller then the fingernail of your pinky. The actual resolution makes one cry. Will there ever be an end to this? I think so. Image quality from large sensor still cameras is at a point where little improvement can be done. Photos look just great. Now movie quality has to catch up and all will be good. At least for 2D since we'll probably progress to 3D visualisation in our living room then :-)</p>
<p>I watched a lot of <a href="http://vimeo.com/d90/">Nikon D90 DSLR videos</a> recently at vimeo. This model has a sensor of the same size as a 35 mm cinema camera. The depth of field and the colors and the overall look of the videos makes my HF100 pale. Sure the D90 shows a lot of JPEG compression artefacts and has a low bitrate and no control but nevertheless it looks very good at 640 x 360 size. And it will only get better with upcoming models. </p>
<p>I recommend watching these videos from the D90 to get the feel of the "new look" future cameras promise. The D90 has bad resolution but the images feel warm and analog.<br />
<a href="http://www.vimeo.com/1694439">www.vimeo.com/1694439</a><br />
<a href="http://www.vimeo.com/1696848">www.vimeo.com/1696848</a><br />
<a href="http://www.vimeo.com/1775787">www.vimeo.com/1775787</a><br />
<a href="http://www.vimeo.com/1713382">www.vimeo.com/1713382</a>
</p>
Now the HF100 is FullHD but can you watch it at that size on a computer monitor? I also have to scale its video down to 360p in order to look akzeptable. Still the HF100 images look "muddier" than the D90 ones. Sure you can do some "color grading" but if the material isn't optimal its frustrating. I always said that it's a miracle how such quality can come from such a tiny, tiny sensor but imagine what the HF100 could deliver with a large sensor. It can't be this small any more but who cares? In the past 35 mm size meant heavy, expensive cameras but it can be done in a very small package. E.g. the <a href="http://www.four-thirds.org/en/microft/index.html">Micro Four Thirds standard</a> promises small still/movie cameras with "huge" sensors and fast autofocus during movie recording. Autofocus is important since the shallow depth of field of large sensor cameras makes it difficult to focus manually, especially on the lcd screen (the viewfinder is disabled in movie mode). Vimeo is full of unsharp D90 videos because of this.</p>
<object width="400" height="225"> <param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /> <param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /> <param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=1723303&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1" /> <embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=1723303&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="225"></embed></object><br /><a href="http://vimeo.com/1723303?pg=embed&sec=1723303">Pentax K20D(21f/s) + DA55-300mm</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user642322?pg=embed&sec=1723303">ligar</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com?pg=embed&sec=1723303">Vimeo</a>.
<p>The above movie represents the holy grail (Download and watch the original!). Some day there will be no difference between the quality of a photo and a movie frame. Until then we have to live with the crippled products the industry is willing to give us consumers.</p>
<p>After seeing the "look" of big sensor movies <span style="font-weight:bold;">I will never ever buy a small sensor camera again. Period.</span> By the way I observe all these changes at <a href="http://myphotomoviecam.blogspot.com/">myphotomoviecam.blogspot.com</a></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-73476541575877248002008-09-10T14:31:00.008+02:002008-09-10T15:07:30.367+02:00LYTECUP exposure control device<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-oUhlUXfzbfDl4R_-hG4q_S69SJMnl1itrK1q3O-Q-NVN95GOyiEv8Rp0pYHyIfHH-GivIh3xTRBuiF3lhxBy094Jtk7qrPACbU9bZJ5ezqaKv9PtHeAOlg09_qEnTWmqpStYW-5Osw/s1600-h/lytecap.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-oUhlUXfzbfDl4R_-hG4q_S69SJMnl1itrK1q3O-Q-NVN95GOyiEv8Rp0pYHyIfHH-GivIh3xTRBuiF3lhxBy094Jtk7qrPACbU9bZJ5ezqaKv9PtHeAOlg09_qEnTWmqpStYW-5Osw/s400/lytecap.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244369633125286226" /></a>
<p>Canon HV20/HV30 users also have no manual control over gain, arperture and shutter speed. The <a href="http://www.lytecap.com/multimedia.htm">LYTECUP<sup>TM</sup></a> looks like a useful device. It seems to have a dimmable and diffused LED light source inside and allows to set arpertures and shutter speeds while keeping gain at zero.</p>
<p>I have no experience with this device but I think it would work just the same on the HF100. Maybe some adaption to the smaller lens diameter of the HF100 would be all that is needed. For someone experienced in electronics this could be an interesting DIY project using a LED, a diffuser, a battery, potentiometer, some capacitors, resistors and a NE555 integrated circuit to produce the pulse width modulation (PWM) for dimming the LED but its probably not worth the time if you can buy it readymade for a fair price.</p>
<p>You could use a light meter (expensive) or your point and shoot pocket camera to determine the correct exposure of a scene at a low ISO and 1/50 shutter speed. After this set the HF100 to Tv50 then set the correct arperture using the LYTECUP device. Some experiementing will be required though to find the corresponding ISO value of the "zero gain" HF100 setting.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-18929357273926766812008-07-23T22:52:00.013+02:002008-12-09T00:23:37.099+01:00New HF11 model!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5kgPKfZ2iOIIEr_o4pIJ8pMZmxHjO0yDhmFBRNJ46gbcf2sQ-uphUafT_qd7U4qq0VtCFKlQ066WudYodK_AT08UN8ootN8GtGeuEpZIz0bzJxAfzrrbjMmVd73LL7W1sdbmOAqtWfME/s1600-h/hf11.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5kgPKfZ2iOIIEr_o4pIJ8pMZmxHjO0yDhmFBRNJ46gbcf2sQ-uphUafT_qd7U4qq0VtCFKlQ066WudYodK_AT08UN8ootN8GtGeuEpZIz0bzJxAfzrrbjMmVd73LL7W1sdbmOAqtWfME/s400/hf11.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226316337053370466" /></a>
<p><a href="http://cweb.canon.jp/ivis/lineup/hivision/hf11/index.html">Canon in Japan</a> just indroduced a new HF11 model that finally offers the maximal possible AVCHD data rate of 24 mbits/s. It has 32 GB internal storage and looks like the HF100 model. It will be available in September 2008 for 1.299 Euro. </p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-63345478312143904342008-07-18T15:29:00.008+02:002008-07-18T19:51:27.700+02:00What settings do I use?<p>You can't do much wrong with the HF100 just make sure it's in FXP High Quality mode. If you want to shoot interlaced and you want to be on the safe side the "Easy" button isn't a bad idea. </p>
<p>If you're concerned of best possible motion capture of fast moving objects you may want to use 50i. I use PF25 exclusively and set the shutter speed in Tv mode to 1/50s because higher shutter speeds tend to show stuttering motion. Slower shutter speeds don't work well when the camcorder is handheld. It's the same as with photo cameras if the shutter speed gets too low you have to use a tripod.</p>
<p>At the moment I'm experimenting with Cinemode which looks promising. Here are some comments about this mode from different web forums:
<blockquote>"Cine mode uses a low contrast gamma - it gives more detail in shadows and highlights, creating a flatter looking image."</blockquote>
<blockquote>"Cinemode attempts to keep the shutter speed at 1/48 (NTSC) or 1/50 (PAL). If there's either too little or too much light to compensate with aperture, the shutter speed will be automatically adjusted. In very low light situations, some gain is applied too, but it tops out at 9dB."</blockquote>
<blockquote>"There's no manual control over shutter speed in cine mode."</blockquote>
<blockquote>"Cine mode turns off in-camera sharpening, so the resulting images are softer than with other modes. Generally, this is a good thing, because there are no halos caused by sharpening around edges. Most of the apparent sharpness can be applied back by sharpening in the edit, but unfortunately it also causes some real, unreversable loss in low contrast detail."</blockquote>
<blockquote>"The Cine mode on the HV30 matches the Canon XL A1's Cine V mode (Custom Preset #8)."</blockquote>
<blockquote>"The parameters of the Cine V preset are Gamma: Cine 1, Knee: Low, Black: Stretch, Sharpness: -4, Color Matrix: Cine 1, Color Gain: -20, Color Phase: +5, Red-Blue: -5, Green-Red: -5, Blue-Red: +5, and Red-Green: +12."</blockquote>
<p>My experience with Cinemode so far is that in good light and with some contrast enhancement (and/or color correction) on the computer Cinemode gives very good results. It keeps gain low, stays around 1/50 shutter speed and rather opens the aperture to compensate for low light than increasing the gain. But again it needs enough light. You don't want this mode to go below 1/50s unless you shoot from a tripod.</p>
<p>Whatever you choose test it carefully first!</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6723975250271836091.post-78009288619346613742008-07-10T19:38:00.008+02:002008-12-09T00:23:37.252+01:00PIXO C1 Universal Charger<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDsSK0buUmVhc1iycggOtigDdschEOGiKzu8LmVoJPWTbHl3pR_UgnRgRtzJ1CN5ZGozS22y-M5i2U-oNxW0eGqhHKZzV2dYQjQEjM6KMo1ouz_pJHKGQ-Pw8AnIiNcnAVJ1NmNEApLEQ/s1600-h/pixoC1.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDsSK0buUmVhc1iycggOtigDdschEOGiKzu8LmVoJPWTbHl3pR_UgnRgRtzJ1CN5ZGozS22y-M5i2U-oNxW0eGqhHKZzV2dYQjQEjM6KMo1ouz_pJHKGQ-Pw8AnIiNcnAVJ1NmNEApLEQ/s320/pixoC1.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5221441632174775490" /></a>
<p>This clever designed charger allows to charge Li-on batteries from almost any photo camera or camcorder. Just adjust two pins and insert the battery. The polarity is automatically dedtected and the battery is charged with all neccessary saftety protections. This seems to be a great alternative to the Canon charger, especially if you also have to charge Li-ion batteries from other devices. The street price is below 30 EUR. I don't own this charger but according to the <a href="http://www.pixo.de">manufacturer website</a> it also charges "intelligent" or "smart" batteries. The C2 model additionally charges NiCd and NiMH batteries.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3